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New Zealand’s long history of vegetarianism has seen meat substitutes evolve from mashed potatoes made into meat shapes to high-end, vegan charcuterie.

But while we might think of “alternative proteins” as a relatively new development, there is a long history of vegetarianism, said anthropologist and food historian David Veart.

“Eating meat in the quantities that we do is not only unusual and weird, but also unsustainable,” he said.

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